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  1. We are a paintball team just starting can you provide pointers to me please?
  2. What are the first upgrades for an Autococker?
  3. Can a remote line degrade performance when running compressed air?
  4. As a new team, how should we approach sponsors?
  5. What size barrel should I use?
  6. What upgrades do you recommend for a Bushmaster BKO?
  7. I have questions about the barrel, air tank, and gas hookup for the Bushmaster B2K2.
  8. How do I modify my Bushmaster 2000 with PDS for Warp Feed Intelifeed connection?
  9. Will a Halo make the Warp Feed feed faster than a revvie since it pushes the balls instead of letting them drop?
  10. What are the most important performance upgrades for a Bushmaster (other than barrel and nitro)? What companies make the best performing parts?
  11. How do you coach and manage a 3-Man paintball team?
  12. How do you raise money for the a team?
  13. Where do you get team jerseys for a paintball team?
  14. Which grip frame is better and gives you the highest rate of fire the, Sonic frame or 2003 ICD frame?
  15. How much does it cost to have a new circuit board, wiring harness, LCD screen, tourney chip, and PDS put on my Bushmaster B2K by ICD?
  16. What kind of oil and/or grease do I need to keep the electro-pneumatic gun working properly? Where should it be applied and when?
  17. How do you install an intelifeed on a 2K2 Smart Parts Impulse for a Warp Feed?
  18. How do we get other people to participate if we already know who we want on our team. How many people should be on a team and what are the age groups, if any?

     We are a paintball team just starting can you provide pointers to me please?

     I would have to say that the number one thing to do is practice as a team. You can't get better if you don't play together. I am not sure if you know it, but our team consists of my father, my two brothers, and a very close friend over the last 10 years or so. The reason I mention this is because we have played together for years and have all grown up together for the most part. The better your teammates know how you play and the better you understand each other, the smoother you will work together. This also helps you develop communication code words to help you let each other know what is going on when you are playing.
     If you play walk on, try to find a couple people that would like to scrimmage with your team as long as it is OK with the field owners. If this doesn't work or isn't allowed then just try to get on the same team and work together. Another thing to remember is to practice against people that are one level above you. This makes you play harder and learn from your mistakes. These people will also be able to let you know what you can do better or how to work a bunker differently. You will find that most teams, even during tournaments are willing to explain what you did and try and help you not make the same mistake again. Sure, it may not be fun to lose playing a team better than you, but that is how you learn. If you spend all day playing a team you beat every time then only they are learning and your team is doing nothing different to better your play.
     Another thing you want to do is make sure your gun works all the time. There is nothing more frustrating than having your gun go down and playing with a backup you don't know as well. You also want to make sure you are comfortable with your equipment. Tournaments can be stressful as they are and to be uncomfortable in your regular gear will just make things seem a lot worse.
     It will also help if you get known at your local field. Talk to the refs, a lot of times they are tourney players and they can help you with your game. You will want to play good clean paintball if you play walk on and get a good rep for you team. Things like not overshooting, watching your language, calling paintchecks, and watching your temper can help you get a good rep with the refs and all the regulars. You can also give other people you happen to be playing with tips as to how they could have done something a little better in the previous game to help them out. I remember reading an article in the latest or last months APG about some things to think about as a team. You might want to check that out also.
     The most important thing to do is have fun. That is why we all started playing paintball anyhow, was to enjoy it. You win some, you lose some, that's the way it goes. As long as you are learning from your mistakes and having fun then you didn't waste your time. These are the main points to get you started. I know it sounds like a lot, but it all comes together pretty easy.

     I just got a new 2002 vert feed Autococker. It is completely stock right now, but not for long. However, I can't figure out were to start adding parts and I just wanted to know what you think I should put on it. I mean like parts, brands of parts, that kind of thing. Also, I can't decide whether or not I want to buy a new frame for it since I am running a remote off of it. Also, I heard that if I used a remote and a compressed air tank that I would not be able to shoot fast at all. Is that true? Well thank you for your time.

     These are just opinions and you should check around as to what you want to do first:
     1) Get a hinged trigger frame and trigger for the gun. These are fairly new, but they have so far been the best thing to get for a cocker for trigger feel and rate of fire.
     2) Find a different bolt. A really good one I think is called a Super Fly bolt. It reduces ball breakage and will help with accuracy a bit. I think I have the name right here.
     3) Get a faster 3 way, faster ram, a higher flow valve, and a lighter cocking block. As far as these parts go, good brands would be Shocktech or ANS.
     4) Get a new barrel. The Dye Boomstick is one of the best on the market right now.
     5) You can also call the tech department at WGP for some extra ideas.
     There are no problems with running compressed air on a remote. The air will be delivered to the gun at the same volume and pressure as if it were screwed directly into the on gun ASA. The only problem that you want to watch is to not run the compressed air through an expansion chamber. While CO2 requires the time and space to expand from a liquid to a gas, the expansion chamber will only slow down the compressed air since it is already a gas.
     These are just a few things to get you started. The cocker has so many different things available for it you will have to look around and see what suits you best. Good luck.

     I am on a team that has been playing a little while, but as of yet we haven't played any tournaments. We were wondering how should we go about approaching potential sponsors? We are in desperate need of paint, but the local field already has 2 home teams.

     First, you will have to actually play in a few tournaments and show your team is good enough before people will start to sponsor or recognize you. A sponsor is looking for a team that can advertise their products in a good manor with high visibility. If you can prove that people are watching you and you will not portray a negative image that reflects on your sponsor, then you have a good chance of obtaining a sponsor. Your team needs to be seen as one that plays fair and with good attitudes. You do not need to win every tournament, although that will help. However, you must be visible. You may want to put together a list of events you will be participating in if you get the sponsorship so the potential sponsor will know how often their name will be seen. You could suggest stickers on your guns or jerseys. You can help at community functions that the store may support. You could also organize a game for patrons of the store. Come up with ways that their support of your team is beneficial to their business.

     You should check with local small business owners and see if any of them are interested in partially sponsoring your team. If your main expense is paint and you are only looking for help with that, check with your local dealers and see about having Diablo Direct sponsor your team. Diablo will sponsor a team, but only through a local store. Another way is to call the manufactures of the equipment you use to see if they can work out some kind of a deal. Gaining a few partial sponsors is better than none and every little bit helps. Promoting your team is key also. Create a web site and use it to acknowledge your sponsors. It is more advertising for them.

      It takes time and hard work. Do not expect it to happen over night.


     I am buying a barrel soon and am wondering weather I should go with a length of 14in or 16in. Also if you could tell me how much more accurate a 16in barrel is than a 14in.

     I have shot barrels of all different lengths from a 16 inch All American to the 10 inch Boomstick I use now. The decision depends mostly on the position you play. I play front so I have the shortest barrel I could find and I can tuck in tight. Two other teammates use 12 inch barrels, one playing back and one playing mid. I would select the 14 inch if those are your only two choices. Some players use longer barrels to push into air bunkers, so that depends on your playing style.

     As far as accuracy and/or distance, both will be the same. There have been many tests done and it has been found that a paintball only needs the first 6-9 inches of a barrel to stabilize. After the first 6-9 inches you need to consider gas efficiency. The longer the barrel the better gas efficiency you will have because it keeps the air behind the ball longer. I really don't think there is a big enough difference to worry about that at all. I shoot an Eclipse Bushmaster 2000 with my 10 inch Boomstick and can get about 1100 rounds out of my 88ci/3000psi tank. One other teammate uses a 12 inch Boomstick with the same size tank and gets about the same amount of shots per tank.

     So really the answer is if you are playing front, go with the shorter barrel so you can tuck in tight to your bunker. Even if you are playing back a 14 inch barrel should really be sufficient. If the barrel is too long it could get in the way.

     What upgrades do you recommend for a Bushmaster BKO?

     The BKO is basically the same thing as the Bushmaster 2000 series except without all the bells and whistles. The only real upgrades I have put on my Bushmaster is the red valve from Macdev, the Gladiator regulator from Macdev, a Dye Boomstick, and an Eclipse delrin bolt. Art k. is testing the non-delrin venturi bolt from Tantrum Paintball. It has worked well so far. There is also a delrin bolt made by Wetworks, but I have never used it and cannot tell you the quality. If you go from our homepage to the preferred equipment section you will find a link to Macdev and Eclipse. The red valve really helps to lower the operating pressure of the gun. If you get a delrin bolt you do not ever want to oil it. The material absorbs liquids and makes the bolt expand in your gun. Since we are on the subject of oil, never OIL anything in the BKO or Bushmaster guns. Only use white lithium grease. When you oil any gun with a solenoid the oil ends up settling in the solenoid and destroys it. Those are the only upgrades I would really suggest for the BKO. The BKO and Bushmaster are both extremely good guns right out of the box and don't need a lot of upgrades. The only upgrades that will not work on the BKO that are good on the Bushmaster are any that involve the ram and the solenoid. I am not 100% sure, but I don't think the BKO can handle any LPR upgrades from the Bushmaster either because of where the LPR is located and designed on the BKO.

     I have just recently purchased a B2K2 Bushmaster and was wondering about the barrel and air tank. I also wanted to know how the gas is hooked to the tank. In the pictures, there is no line running down for air.

     Boomsticks work really well on Bushmasters. I am not sure I understand your question about the air. If you are using a preset nitro tank then you will run a hose from the ASA adapter into the input side of the high pressure regulator on your gun. If you are running an adjustable output nitro tank then you want to just run the hose straight from the tank to the high pressure regulator on your gun. All of our guns are setup this way. Some of the team members run a remote line where they have the tank on their backs and a hose running into the gun.

     How do I modify my Bushmaster 2000 with PDS for Warp Feed Intelifeed connection?

     It really isn't very difficult, however with all the wires and very little room to work you need to be patient and make sure to solder good connections. There is a video on the site where you can see me do the intelifeed modification to one of our Bushmasters. The link is here if you want to watch Other than that here are the basic directions.

     You need to get a 3/32 male adapter from radio shack or somewhere. You also need to get some very small gauge wire (around 22 ga) and some heat shrink. Take 2 strips of wire and cut them about 1 foot long or so, that way you have some room to play with. Solder one end of a wire so it is connected to the tip of the male adapter. Solder one end of the other wire so it is connected to the side of the male adapter. Make sure you get good connections and they are not where they will be able to short. The wire going to the tip of the adapter will be positive. Take the gun apart and take out the LED and the battery (I would recommend the circuit board as well to give you more room, just be careful with it). If you look at the LED closely you will find one side is flat and the other is curved. Cut the wire going to the flat side of the LED and attach the wire running to the tip of the male adapter to that side of the LED along with the original wire. Use the heat shrink to make sure it will not short out later and be sure to solder a good joint. Now cut the wire running to the negative side of the battery. Attach the wire you soldered to the outside of the male adapter to the negative battery wire along with the original wire. Now it is all hooked up. Run the intelifeed wire through your grip and put everything back in carefully. Your intelifeed is now wired for "tip positive." You need to take the black cover plate off the back of your warp feed and change the jumpers next to where the intelifeed plugs in so that you have the jumper on the middle set of plugs. I think the middle set it "tip positive," but I am not 100% sure. If you check your warp feed instructions it will tell you. Now just plug it up and turn on the gun. Every time you pull the trigger the LED should flash and the warp feed should spin. You can adjust the spin length of the warp through the other jumpers, but again, refer to your instructions that came with the warp. This sounds very confusing, but it isn't as difficult as it seems on paper. If you watch the video (it is only about 27 minutes long) I walk you through the whole process.

Now for the disclaimer, even though this has worked on all of our guns, if you break your gun as a result of this process, my team and I take no responsibility for the damages done. If you follow the directions you shouldn't have a problem though and if you have any questions please ask me before you hook anything up.

     I was wondering when you said that a Warp Feed with a Halo is a possibility; do you mean that the halo will make the Warp Feed feed faster than the revvie since it pushes the balls instead of letting them drop?

     What I meant about the Halo and Warp...The warp can only feed the 18 BPS until you shoot through all the balls around the wheel. After that if a revvie is feeding at 12 BPS then the Warp can't put the balls to the gun any faster. The Halo is faster than a revvie so it will feed the warp faster and allow you to shoot faster overall. However, I have never been able to out shoot a 12 volt revvie with my Warp.

     What are the most important performance upgrades for a Bushmaster (other than barrel and nitro)? What companies make the best performing parts?

     There are a lot of upgrades I have tried for the Bushmaster just because I can't leave well enough alone. Here are the ones I have found that work well. There may be others out there and opinions vary, but this is what the team uses.

     High Pressure Reg - Macdev Gladiator Regulator. I have found this to be VERY consistent shot to shot and I have been impressed with its' ability to keep up with high rates of fire. We use this reg on 2 of our guns right now and probably all of them in the near future. If you get this reg I would recommend the short Macdev HPR adapter. This adapter allows you to put an aftermarket reg on the gun and leaves you a place to put the gauge so you don't have to guess at your pressure.

     Low Pressure Reg - Macdev B2K2 Low Pressure Kit. We do not currently have this on any of our guns, however I have shot Bushmasters at the IAO with this kit and it was totally amazing. The LPR kit from Macdev lowers the operating pressure to around 60-70 psi. This makes it easier on paint and makes it to where your gun will not give as much recoil. The Macdev low pressure regulator is also very consistent during rapid firing. The kit also comes with a ram gauge. You unscrew your ram assembly and screw in the gauge then gas up the gun. The gauge will tell you exactly what your LPR is set at and you can easily tune it in which is a big help.

     Valve - Macdev Red Valve. This valve allows more flow than the old Eclipse valve that was originally in my gun and the Vapor vale put in one of our other Bushmasters. The Red Valve also helps to lower your operating pressure a substantial amount.

     Bolt - Tantrum Bolt. This is a venturi bolt which is easier on paint. We only have one right now because I was previously sold on the Eclipse bolts until this one came out. This bolt is amazing and unlike most venturi bolts it has 11 holes to distribute air around the ball instead of just 8. This bolt is also made of a different material than the Eclipse bolts and it will not swell in humid weather.

     Trigger Frame - 2003 ICD Factory Trigger Frame. This frame is slightly different than the traditional 45 frame. There is a slight curve on the back of the frame that fits your hand perfectly. This grip also feels as if it is slightly straighter than a 45 frame and is much more comfortable. The frame also provides 3 different hinge points for the trigger to swing from in case you want to be able to move the trigger closer to your hand or farther away. The trigger itself also allows you to adjust the micro switch and travel length the same way as on the old triggers. There is a bonus to this one though that allows you to adjust the spring tension on the trigger through a third screw in the trigger so you don't have to take the trigger off with punch tools and change the spring anymore.

     Board - ICD Tourney board. The only reason I recommend this over a Chaos Chip is because of the cost. You can send the gun to ICD and for about $25 they will re-program the board to whatever you want (within reason). One of our teammates has this board and it is set at 25.9 BPS.

     Eye - ICD PDS (Paintball Detection System). I believe this is the only eye available at this time for the Bushmaster. We have the very first version of the eye to come out as well as the newest version and both are flawless. We have never had a paint that does not work with the eye, but if you do run into a problem you can actually turn the eye off with an extra switch on the side of the gun. It really is a big plus if you think you will outshoot your loader so you do not chop paint.

     LCD - ICD LCD Display. This is just a big plus, it gives you a shot counter which is nice, but the big benefit is the game timer. It is especially helpful with 10 second countdowns. The LCD display is on the back of your gun so you can just glance at it when playing so you can check the time and maybe alter your game plan. These have now been discontinued by ICD because most players don't use them. If they still have some in stock they should be able to put one on if you would like.

     Barrel - Dye Boomstick. I know everyone says this, but they have worked really well on all our guns. The internal bore of the Boomstick matches the paint we shoot just about perfectly. We shoot Diablo Blaze unless a tourney requires us to use different paint. We rarely have problems with any kind of chopping or breaking of paint with this barrel/paint combo. When we do have issues with brittle paint or chopping the guns with the PDS and tantrum bolts still work flawlessly.

     How do you coach and manage a 3-Man paintball team?

     Coaching and managing a 3-Man team is not as hard as it may seem. First I would recommend deciding how each person is going to play. Figure out who will play what positions each person is comfortable with and then practice that setup. As far as how to coach the team, you will need to critique each other. If there is someone that is knowledgeable about tourney paintball that can watch the team play that would be best. If there is nobody to watch then try this...when you are playing try and remember what you needed to know at a certain point in the game. Then you will know after the game to tell your teammates what they need to be doing to help you. You can also try looking back at a game to see how one of your teammates could have helped you out in the situation if they knew what was going on. You need to rely on each other if you do not have someone else to tell you how each person is playing. Try having a good scrimmage against another team and then afterwards get together and have each person figure out what they needed during the game that they did not have. They may have been missing some cover fire that would have helped, or they could have needed to know a guy moved or that one of your other teammates was eliminated. Also, you don't want to just go over what is being done wrong. You also need to talk about what is being done right so the team can continue doing it. I have found the more you talk during and after games makes a big difference on the field.

     As far as managing a team, you should be the one to setup scrimmages and practice days with other teams. You should also come up with some drills to help you with different aspects of your game that may need improvement. It is your job to make sure the team is working on things they are doing wrong and the team stays focused on getting ahead. You also need to make sure the team shows good sportsmanship when a game is lost or even when a game is won. You should really come up with a schedule of events the team will be participating in and get the other members of the team to commit to participating in each event.

     How do you raise money for the a team?

     We have never done anything to raise money for the team, but it would be helpful to do some kind of fundraising event. A little extra cash for practices or entry fees could never hurt. I have thought of the idea of selling doughnuts or candy at a local department store like different sports teams do. I do not know how well that would be accepted by the public though and would have to look in to it a little further. Really that is the only idea I have ever had and we have not tried it yet. If you come up with anything else please let me know.

     Where do you get team jerseys for a paintball team?

     With the jerseys, if you are talking about having a team name put on them, I have a few options for you. If you call JT and order jerseys from them they will put your team name in vinyl lettering on them for an additional $20 on top of the cost of the jersey. We had this done to the jerseys in the team photo on the website. Once we got our sponsorship with National Paintball Supply they got us new jerseys from Diablo. We don't have the new pictures of these jerseys on the site yet. There are some places that will make vinyl lettering and graphics to put on fabric using a heat press. We got our team logo, National Paintball logo, and the TMX store logo done in vinyl in about a week. We just sent the files to a company in TX, I believe and they made the logos and mailed them to me. You can use an iron or heat press to put them on if you would like. As usual with vinyl graphics you should not put them in the dryer and you just hang them up in your closet to dry. The name of the company that did our vinyl graphics was AA Paintball. Their web address is It was not too expensive to have it done and it really gives the team a good look and puts a name with the jerseys so people will remember you. I have also heard that Smart Parts and Dye will do custom jerseys, but I have never looked into them.

     Which grip frame is better and gives you the highest rate of fire the Sonic frame or 2003 ICD frame?

     Both the ICD and Sonic frames are nice because of the hump on the back of the handle. The triggers are a little different though. ICD comes with a blade trigger and the Sonic comes with a standard 2 finger trigger. I have shot them both and found I can shoot the ICD slightly faster than the Sonic. This may be because I am used to a blade trigger. It really comes down to whether you want a blade trigger or a 2 finger trigger. You can't go wrong either way, and if it turns out you don't like the trigger you get, you can always replace it with the other.

     How much does it cost to have a new circuit board, wiring harness, LCD screen, tourney chip, and PDS put on my Bushmaster B2K by ICD?


  • PDS upgrade is $125 and includes reprogramming the gun for the tourney board.
  • LCD upgrade is about $190 because you have to get a new lower tray for the gun.
  • New circuit Board/Wiring harness is $75. You only need a new circuit board if you don't already have an LCD board. ICD put the LCD boards in most of their guns after January 2001 even if the gun was not setup with an LCD already. The way to tell if you have an LCD board is to take your grips off and see if the circuit board has a small blue knob on it. If the knob is there, you already have an LCD board.
  • These prices are subject to change without notice. Please contact ICD directly for current prices and availability.

     What kind of oil and/or grease do I need to keep the electro-pneumatic gun working properly? Where should it be applied and when?

     First thing, NEVER OIL ANYTHING on an electro-pneumatic gun. Anything viscous enough to flow into the solenoid will destroy it. This will also void any warranty you have on the gun. You should use only general/all purpose lithium grease on the gun. This stuff is really thick, but you don't have to worry about it slowing the gun down. You also don't need to gob it on, just a thin layer will work fine. I don't know how far apart you take your Bushmaster, but here are the things you need to clean/maintain over time.

     Put a small amount of grease on all the o-rings around the ram assembly. Also put some around the hammer and the piston that moves back into the ram. There is an o-ring on the inside of the ram you need to lubricate and greasing the piston helps a bit. Do not lubricate the bolt with anything. If it is the stock bolt, it is made of delrin and is "self lubricating." Unscrew the low pressure reg from the front on the gun and unscrew the long silver piece on the end. Be careful not to lose the spring and brass cup seal inside. Put a very small amount of grease on the o-ring inside the black piece and also a small amount on the brass seal. Now unscrew the large screw you normally screw in to adjust your LPR. There is a piston inside there that moves up and down as you adjust the pressure. Stick a small allen key through the middle of the o-ring inside the LPR and push the piston out the back side. Again, put a small amount of lube around the o-ring and put it all back together in reverse order. Assuming you have the stock HPR it will unscrew and come apart the same way as the LPR. These instructions sound really difficult, but it is easy when you take it apart and see how it all works. It is recommended to clean your regs every 3,000-4,000 shots, however I normally go about 6,000-8,000 shots, or just before a tournament.

     How do you install an intelifeed on a 2K2 Smart Parts Impulse for a Warp Feed?

     First you need a 3/32 male plug from some place like Radio Shack. If you get the adapter in a right angle it helps. Then you need to get some 22 or 24 gauge wire and some heat shrink.

     Before you do anything else unhook the power from your gun. You need to hook a wire long enough to reach up inside the gun and give you some room to play with (probably about 24" to be safe) to the position on the center of the 3/32 plug. Now you need to hook another wire just as long to the outside part of the 3/32 plug. When I say to the center and to the outside, the plug will come apart in half (if you got a right angle), or will unscrew (if you got a straight plug). Make sure to run some heat shrink over the wires in the 3/32 plug so they will not short across each other.

     Now you need to run the wires up through the grip into your gun and up to the solenoid. Take the solenoid off the gun and strip the glue covering the leads. Smart parts has so far been true to keeping positive red and negative black, but check it first just to make sure because they could have changed for some reason even though it is unlikely.

     This is where you need to shorten up the wires you have attached to the plug, but having too much wire is better than not having enough. Solder the wire you ran to the center of your plug to positive on the solenoid and run the wire on the outside of your plug to positive on the battery. This may sound strange, but it is the only way I was able to get it to work on an Impulse. It does have a side effect of spinning the Warp Feed when the gun is shut off. I have not been able to make it work any other way though. Be sure to get good joints when you solder and don't cross the leads. Now take a little hot glue and cover the leads back up like the factory did. Reassemble your gun at this time.

     Your warp feed should now be wired for "tip positive." Check the owners manual on your warp, to find out what jumper to set it on. I believe it is the center set of jumpers next to the female adapter for the 3/32 plug.

     How do we get other people to participate if we already know who we want on our team. How many people should be on a team and what are the age groups, if any?

     Starting a new team takes a lot of work. There are a few things you need to do to make sure your team is successful. The first thing you need to do is make sure everyone is on the same page. You need to sit down with your team and make sure everyone knows what the team's goals are and everyone commits to putting their best efforts forth to achieve those goals. When you say you are not able to get other people to participate in tournament paintball, there are a few things you have to consider. It will really help me if I knew why they do not want to participate. You could try to take them to some local tournaments so they can get an idea of how things are run. You could even enter in a local beginner level tournament and see how it is to play under the pressure of competition. Remember, paintball is supposed to be fun, even at the competitive level. If a player does not enjoy and have fun playing tournaments then that may not be the way that player should go. If the problem has to do with the money it takes to play then you may just have to let it go until their situation changes.

     The number of players on a team varies as to what type of tournaments you will be participating in. We have six people on our team and we participate in three and five man events. In three man tourneys you can normally have four people on the roster so you have one alternate. In five man events it is usually the same way with only one alternate, but sometimes two are allowed depending on the promoter's rules. In seven and ten man formats usually there are only one or two alternates per team. In regards to the age limits, sometimes at local tournaments they will split the teams into an above 17 years old age group and a 17 and below age group. However there are no rules that say you cannot participate at any level or within any age group you want to. You could take your team and sign up to play in the pro division of the NPPL and you could play. You may not win, but it would be allowed. If you decide to take this approach, remember that future tournaments consider your previous tournaments for deciding your division. For instance, if you play in an amateur tournament and lose, future tournaments may not allow you to play in the novice division since you have amateur experience.


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